Those among us who are or were farm-boys and -girls will correctly identify them as Holsteins; to the rest of the citified world, they're spotted cows.

This multigrain Midwestern take on the American cream ale is an uncomplicated, unfussy, lovable guzzler. Pouring straw gold with a snowy pillow of froth, the nose is gentle and sweet, full of its constituent blend of malted and flaked barley and corn, and the flavor is more of the same.

Hops give a little whisper of flowers and spice from the background. A tranquil time-out in a pint glass, a pastoral idyll, a sociable session ale dairyland-style: hey, sometimes a beer is just a beer. Have one.